Pet Parents be Like 2
Fat Cats Cost Fat Stacks
I’m not good at estimating things, but I’d say about 90% of the pets I see are overweight to obese. Owners don’t like to hear this, though. If they could just have a big eyed, furry thing to pet and feed forever, that would be their ideal life. The animal wants the food, it makes them “happy” and if baby is happy, owner is happy, but the animal doesn’t seem to really ENJOY the food typically and just wolfs it down and looks for more like “I can’t believe that’s all you’re going to give me” and the big eyes instill guilt, we feed, feel happy, then guilt for not giving more, and so the cycle continues. Unfortunately as they get older, or even some at a much younger age, the extra weight can cause so many more problems.
People tend to judge how much their pet should weigh based on their breed (or perceived breed) and their parents’ sizes. I often hear “well, how big should he be for his breed?” or “well, his daddy was HUGE – with a head *THIS* big and was 195lb!!” There are a few problems with this theory. 1: every breed has a wide range of what can be normal (height, thickness, etc) , 2: every individual gets different genetics and may not end up as large as their parents (or could be larger) – My parents were both 5’11” and I ended up 5’8″. 3: just because the parent was 195lb, that doesn’t tell me if that parent was an ideal body condition and not also obese.
In general, you should be able to feel your pet’s ribs, but not see them. So, especially with those super fluffy critters, you’ll have to put your hands on them to decide if they’re too fat/skinny. Have them stand up, then run your fingers down their ribs. You should be able to easily feel the ribs without pressing, but not feel any depressions between them, like the back of your hand. If you have to push through flesh to feel the bones like you would on your wrist, your pet needs to lose weight. If you can feel spaces between their ribs like your fingers, your pet needs to gain weight.
Here’s an equation to figure out how much your pet needs to eat in a day (not just their pet food, but you have to include EVERY calorie that goes in their mouths – food dropped, just a little snack while cooking, kids feeding them, treats every time they go outside and use the bathroom, the cat’s food when you leave it out for them to steal, etc, etc). Remember, a 100 calorie snack for an adult human could be 50% of a small animal’s daily needs. So, even just a little bite for you could be enormous for our pets. And don’t be fooled by the pet who is ALWAYS hungry. Unlike us, they have no concept of “being healthy” other than “EAT WHEN YOU CAN BECAUSE YOU NEVER KNOW WHEN THERE WILL BE FOOD AGAIN!!!!” Remember, a dog/cat has about the intelligence of a three year old child, so we have to be their brains and think of their health for them.
Daily calorie needs for your pet = 70 x (Ideal body weight in kg)^0.75
*********DOG FOOD BAGS LIE!!!!! DON’T FOLLOW THOSE INSTRUCTIONS!!!!!**************
** weight in lb/2.2 = weight in kg
** Ideal weight = body weight – (body weight x %overweight)
- with % overweight = anywhere from 10-40% overweight (ask your vet)
- So, 42lb beagle that is OBESE is about 40% over weight, so ideal body weight = 42 – (42×0.4) = 25.2lb
- So, a 42lb beagle that should only weight 25lbs, 25/2.2 = 11.4kg
- calories = 70 x (11.4kg)^0.75 = 70(6.2) = 434 calories per day
- To make it a little easier for you, here’s a chart (This is for ADULT animals, not growing/lactating/pregnant – Also, this is IDEAL weight, not their current weight if they’re obese)
- Talk to your vet to get your pet’s ideal weight
Our pets do not live very long (10-15 years for most dogs; 15-20 years for most cats), so giving them the healthiest lifestyle keeps them happier for those years. Arthritis and diabetes are common sequelae to being overweight as well and breathing difficulty in the short squat dogs like French and English bulldogs. Osteoarthritis leads to many many euthanasias and dogs that are overweight are GOING to have more mobility issues and will start getting them much earlier in their lives. Mobility issue leads to being unable to get up from laying down, walk over hard floors, navigate stairs – making owners have to carry dogs to go outside to the bathroom (think apartment living), bed sores, other injuries from slipping and falling, infections around skin folds around rectum, penis, vulva. Diabetes treatment requires twice daily insulin injections, multiple vet visits to get insulin regulated, regimented note taking and nursing care, and, of course, more money. (Just think of all the money you could have saved by NOT feeding your dog all those extra treats AND diabetes/arthritis therapy!)
Cats that are overweight will start with arthritis, but you may not see it (see my last blog on pet pain) until you start noticing your cat urinating or defecating outside the litterbox. Inappropriate urinating and defecating is one of the leading causes of cat euthanasia – and it all could just be because it hurts to walk into the litterbox or get into position to poop. Obese cats will also develop diabetes ($$$$), stop being able to groom themselves, leading to mats in the hair, grumpy cats, and infections around their rear from feces and urine sitting on their skin.
The most loving and money saving thing you can do for your pets is to stay ahead of the problems – flea/tick/heartworm preventative, vaccines, and keeping them at a healthy weight are the absolute minimum for giving your pet the healthiest and longest life you can. You may feel like they love you more if you feed them, but they don’t really associate food with love. Over feeding them can border on cruelty and abuse. You are their caretaker. You control what they eat – 100% – you can show your love more than anything in the world by keeping them at a healthy weight. You can do this!
His leg fell off, but I don’t think he’s in PAIN! W.T.F.
I recently had a case where an animal had all the skin stripped off it’s paws which were now red, bleeding, and swollen. I comforted the owner after they asked me if I was going to close the wounds and informed them we would be unable to close due to all the flesh being torn from the pads, but not to worry, we would get the animal on antibiotics and pain meds until it heals. The owner looked at me like I was crazy and said “well, I don’t think he’s in any pain, except where your assistant took his temperature in his butt”.
Unfortunately, this wasn’t the first time I’ve had an owner deny their pets’ pain. It wasn’t even, likely, the first time that day. I have made a Tiktok video about it:
So, let’s talk about pain for a second. Animals are different than us. Not in that they don’t feel pain, but that they are NOT going to show pain like we will. We live in a society where 1. we expect a fix for every ailment we have thanks to modern medicine and 2. others in our circle will take care of us if we are out of commission. Animals, on the other hand are 1. Not going to ask for help because they don’t even know help is an option (my eye fell out? oh, well, guess we’ll try to eat and not die from it) and 2. are fighting for survival, or, at least feel like they are, even with us. House cats, believe it or not, are actually prey for many animals – large birds, foxes, coyotes, wolves, etc. but aren’t the easiest prey, so showing pain could mean being more likely hunted or targeted by those predators. Dogs, going back to pack mentality, may be taken out of the pack if they show pain or at least taken down on the totem pole of hierarchy. If you’ve ever had multiple dogs in a household and seen what happens when one cries out or whimpers and the other dogs run up on him, not to see if he’s okay, but to hover over him intimidatingly and possibly attack depending on the personality.
So, animals have good reasons NOT to show pain. They don’t know if they show pain, you will help them. They may be thinking we’ll get rid of them if they do or they might not get fed, or who knows what they’re thinking. Animals will also, notoriously, get 99% better when they go out in public or come to the vet. We see it all the time, animals who are reportedly dying at home, show up to the clinic, running around, wagging their tail. I don’t automatically think the owner was lying, I just think the adrenaline and survival skills of the animal has kicked in and they animal doesn’t want to show weakness. Just like me and you when you’re not feeling well, but good enough to go to work and you pretend to be peppy and spry around your co-workers or clients. Why? I’m not sure. Am I afraid someone will send me home?? Please! Am I afraid people won’t like me if I’m not 100%? Maybe. But we all do it, so why not expect animals to do the same thing?
So, here’s a list of signs that your animal is sick or in pain. Some will seem simple and straight forward, but I wouldn’t be making this list if people didn’t have a hard time seeing it.
- Not using a body part. Limping but not whining? Still in pain. Squinting, or closing the eye. I’ve seen dogs walk into the clinic, tail wagging, with the obviously fractured leg just dangling in the wind and STILL not vocalizing.
- Change in behavior. Suddenly avoiding you or other animals in the household, more fearful or aggressive, not wanting to eat, play, not jumping up when you’re about to go for a walk. Going in and out of the house or litterbox several times (could indicate diarrhea or urinary issues)
- Change in posture. Hunching, lowered ears, head, tail, curled up tight in a ball, not wanting to lay down, pacing, trying to lay, then pacing again. Standing with chest on the ground and butt in the air – typical of stomach pain.
- Panting, pacing, trembling, shaking, wide “whale eye” where you can see the whites of their eyes like they’re worried.
- Overgrooming/licking an area. This is super common with cats who will groom their under bellies bald if they have abdominal or urinary pain. Also, allergy areas of the paws, a wound, swelling. Sometimes they will even aggressively bite at and rip hair out of a body part that is hurting or irritating them.
- Teeth grinding or bruxism – this horrible sound from their mouth can indicate stomach pain.
- Drooling, eyes tearing, or liquid generally seeping out when or where it’s not supposed to.
- Swelling, bleeding, redness, hot to the touch (make sure to compare both sides of the body to make sure it’s not just you – you’d be surprised how many perfectly normal fat pads over the hips I’ve diagnosed when the owner only noticed one side being big)
I’m sure there’s more signs that I’m not thinking of right now, but this is a good list for now. Basically, animals don’t show pain very much – always playing it cool – and if you ever notice anything different, take them to the vet and have them evaluate them. I’d much rather tell you you’re crazy, the animal is fine than have you wait until the leg is rotted off before you decide it might need attention.
**Side note** – a lot of orthopedic pain issues can be helped by having your animal at the ideal body weight – unlike this obese clinic cat who is likely contributing to orthopedic/musculoskeletal pain of the small child trying to hold him. #weloveyoudan
Here’s a picture of a very healthy, non-painful dog – happily just finished a 4 mile mountain trail run. Head, ears, tail up, back straight, wide based stance.
Also, for the love of all that is holy, DO NOT give your animal human pain medication unless under the direction of a veterinarian. Most of them cause significant and immediate liver and/or kidney failure. This goes for you, too, Dr. Human Orthopedic surgeon, NO Celebrex! Even if all your human patients are on it! No!
Is this an Emergency?! Common Over- and Under Reactions
Veterinary offices everywhere are struggling to keep up with the demand of the needs of pets lately and some folks are having to wait a couple of weeks to months to get things addressed. This is causing excessive spill over into the Emergency Clinic world. Suddenly, a place that was designed for the super severe, complicated, or tragic cases that happen in the middle of the night are now clogged up with ear infections and dogs that have been limping for 2 hours. Then, they are getting horrible reviews and dragged through the mud on social media for owners having to wait 8 hours and having to pay hundreds of dollars more than they would at their regular vet (if they have one). People sometimes forget how much money it costs to keep a top tier facility like that open 24 hours a day and fully staffed to be able to drop everything and take your dog to surgery for a bleeding abdominal mass. They also forget that a non-emergency is going to continue to get bumped by the actual emergencies that may not live through the night. So, I decided to come up with a list of things that are absolutely not an emergency to save numerous angry owners from the long waits and heavy fees of going to a place that is currently doing CPR on a dying dog. Then, I will have a list of things that are absolute emergencies that some owners might wait a little too long to address which could lead to more money spent, but more importantly, a poorer outcome for your pet. Also, please read my previous post “5 ridiculously easy ways to avoid pet emergencies and BIG bills that your vet doesn’t want you to know… oh, wait.”
Things that often present as emergency, but are not.
- Ear infections. Yes, these can be painful and itchy, but save your trip to the ER. It can wait until regular business hours. Ear infections in dogs and (lesser) cats are not like infant/child ear infections in that they typically don’t cause fever and significant internal pain. The vast majority of ear infections in dogs and cats are external to the ear drum and therefore, not as serious. Most ear infections can be prevented with diligent observation of the dog’s ears every now and then – are they red? Do they smell bad? Is your dog shaking/scratching ears more often? Your vet has some amazing ear cleaners that can prevent the infections to begin with if your dog produces excessive ear wax. Most infections are caused by breed (Here’s looking at you, Cockers) and allergies. Dogs can be kept on allergy meds (talk to your vet for recommendations) to prevent the excessive wax production that the little buggers (bacteria and yeast) love to thrive on. Your dog suddenly have fire-red ears on a Saturday night and won’t stop digging/shaking? Give 1mg/lb benadryl (So, 50lb dog will get 50mg benadryl – DON’T Give children’s liquid if it has xylitol in it) every 8 hours and wait for Monday morning to call your vet.
- Limping. Ugh, so many. Unless you feel like the leg is broken ie. dangling, bent in unnatural way, bleeding, largely swollen, or dog screams if you touch the leg (30min after injury) it can probably wait until normal business hours or may even resolve by that time. Yes, occasionally we will get a broken leg, more often, a torn cruciate (ACL tear) – big dog playing hard, screams, holding back leg up – but more often than not, it’s a sprain or strain and will not show up on an x-ray and will get better with rest.
- Bleeding toe nail. There’s a saying in medicine “the farther from the heart, the more likely to live”. Your dog is MORE than likely not going to exsanguinate from a bleeding toenail. If your dog will let you, elevate the leg, apply pressure with your fingers to either side of the toe involved, apply cornstarch or flour (all purpose, cake, self rising, I don’t care) until you get the bleeding to stop. If he won’t let you, send him out in the yard and forget about him for an hour.
- Vomiting…. once. We see it all the time. Client rushes into the clinic on emergency for vomiting dog. We’re all geared up for the next train wreck foreign body surgery, blocking off appointments to make sure we have enough time, and when we get into the room, we find out the dog vomited once last night – but ate breakfast this morning. Or vomiting three times 10 days ago. Or had diarrhea once. Would you rush yourself to the ER if you had diarrhea last night, but felt fine today? Or if you vomited three times last week, but have been fine since? Now, if a patient has been vomiting several times in a day, absolutely it could be an emergency, especially if they can’t keep anything, including water, down.
- Any skin issues. When I was working shifts at the ER, we would get someone waiting 8 hours to be seen for skin issues and end up paying 10x the amount they would at their regular vet due to increased costs of running a 24/7 clinic. Flea prevention goes a REALLY long way in preventing these, but even then, likely it can wait until normal business hours. Hot, inflamed skin that pops up all of the sudden and is oozing and terribly itchy? Trim the hair away from it, clean it with mild soap (Dog oatmeal shampoo if you have it, baby shampoo if not), give 1mg/lb benadryl every 8 hours until you can get to your regular vet.
Things that ARE an emergency but people don’t always take seriously
- Eyes! Eyes are always an emergency. Even when they’re not, you should still treat them like one until proven otherwise. One eye squinty? Redness, swelling? Drainage with squinting? Bluish color or cloudiness to the eyes? Any wound involving eyelids? Take to the vet NOW. Could it be something simple like conjunctivitis? Sure! But it could also be an ulcer or scratch or hole in the cornea that causes your pet’s eye to rupture and have to have their eye removed. Lacerated eyelids need to be repaired ASAP to make sure they are aligned correctly without too much “shrinkage”. If the repaired lids do not line up pretty perfectly, it will lead to problems in the future – like increased risk of corneal ulcers. Sometimes animals get foreign bodies in their eye that need to be either flushed out, or the eye needs to be numbed and the vet will look behind the third eyelid for sticks, grass, bugs, etc that will continue to scratch the eye every time the animal blinks. Eyes will either heal up like nothing ever happened or can turn into a train wreck in just a matter of hours.
- A male cat (neutered or not) that is straining or vocalizing in the litterbox. Male cats, as you can imagine, have VERY tiny penises with even tinier urethras. Any amount of crystals can get caught in that very tiny urethra as it twists and turns around the pelvis to get to the end of the penis. Once the crystals get backed up to the point of blocking the flow of urine, the bladder starts to fill like a water balloon left on the spigot. Not only will this put extraordinary pressure on the kidneys, but if the bladder eventually pops, your kitty is pretty much done.
- Bloated dog that is not eating or is vomiting/retching or is really really sad looking. Especially deep chested dogs. You can even thump on the belly and if it sounds like an empty drum, it’s gas. Big belly, happy, wagging tail, jumping around? Likely just got into something and ate too much (food bloat) but still, take in for radiographs to just make sure. Gastric dilatation volvulus GDV is a condition where the stomach bloats with gas, then flips over, cutting off the blood supply to itself and the spleen. This means you have mere minutes to jump in the car and get to a facility capable of dealing with these. You will likely need to get to a 24 hour emergency clinic as the dog will need surgery, then intensive hospitalization care as the dog can literally just drop dead hours to days after the surgery due to toxins released when the stomach is righted and the effects of those toxins on the heart. It will be vital to have your dog at a facility that can constantly monitor electrolytes and the heart to prevent this. Most small clinics likely will not be able to handle this entire procedure correctly. Ask your regular veterinarian if they are capable of performing a GDV after hours before it ever happens so that you don’t have to waste time calling them only to have them tell you to get to the ER. Get your dog in the car, start driving, have someone call the ER to give them a heads up on the way. This way they will be set up and prepared to properly treat your dog in an expedited fashion.
- Vomiting and unable to keep anything down. Sure, dogs sometimes throw up and it’s no big deal. They go out, eat some grass, vomit, but later, will eat a whole bowl of food and never look back. But if the dog has vomited multiple times, seems lethargic, and/or anytime he eats or drinks anything, it comes back up – DO NOT wait to bring these in. These could be a multitude of issues, but all need to be taken care of ASAP. It could be a foreign body, intestinal blockage, intussusception, intestinal torsion, pancreatitis, etc. Some are surgical, some need intensive hospitalization, but one thing is for sure: the longer you wait, the much much worse it will be. Waiting could result in severe dehydration with multiple organ damage, intestines dying or rupturing, causing deadly infection of the abdomen and body, and a general rapid regression in the overall prognosis of your pet. Foreign body caught right away – simple incision into intestines, suture back up, go home that night. Foreign body after three days: possible inches to feet of intestines removed, infection, days in the hospital, possible death. You may expect to pay a bit more for an emergency visit, but the longer you wait, the more exponential the bill will increase.
- Intact female dog doing almost anything. Vomiting? Drinking and peeing a lot? Lethargic? Vaginal discharge? Swollen abdomen? Any or all of the above? Not currently in heat or knowingly pregnant? Intact female dog (and sometimes cat – but more rare) coming in sick for almost ANY reason is a pyometra until proven otherwise. I discussed this a little before on how to save big bucks on major vet bills (spay and neuter), but a pyometra is where the uterus gets an infection and because it’s just a huge sack of pus hanging out in your dog’s abdomen, it causes grave sickness and if it leaks or ruptures, likely death. It’s easy to diagnose and easy(ish) to treat. Notice your intact female sick and take her in right away, if she is diagnosed with a pyometra, they will take her straight to surgery, remove the entire sack of pus without leakage and she will be a new dog when she wakes up. Wait a few days or try to nurse her at home, she will quickly become septic (whole body infection) and require prolonged hospitalization and a much greater risk the sack of pus will leak or rupture during surgery (all that bacteria, inflammation, and stretching of the uterus makes it super weak and friable) and that will lead to an even poorer prognosis.
In the end, if you aren’t sure, try calling the ER and finding out how emergent your pet’s issue is.